Quilting, like so many needlecraft techniques is centuries old.

Throughout history it has been used as a source of warmth in such forms as clothing and bed quilts.

The basic quilting technique involves simple runnning stitches used to anchor a soft filler between two layers of fabric.

These stitches are usually worked in a systematic pattern to create a subtly textured fabric surface.

The quilting patterns may be the primary or only source of decoration on a particular article, or they may be a secondary source that is introduced to enhance a completed design surface, such as patchwork or applique.

Although the basic quilting technique is usually associated with making of a quilt, it is often decoratively applied today to sections of such garments as jackets, waistcoats, and dressing gowns.

Quilting is also suitable for decorating such accessories for the home as cushions and wall hangings.

Tying is a method of holding a quilt together without making lines of running stitches.

To tie a quilt, you take a single stitch, at regular intervals, through all layers, leaving thread ends long enough to tie a knot on the quilt top.

Tying is faster than quilting with a running thread, and more practical when the filler is thick or otherwise difficult to handle. Also, crazy quilts,which have no filler, are usually tied.

This technique is not suitable when the filler is cotton batting, which tends to shift and so needs the control of stitching.

For tying,you will need a large-eyed crewel needle and a strong decorative thread,such as stranded cotton, pearl cotton, narrow ribbon or knitting yarn.

Padded or English quilting is a type of quilting in which only certain sections of the stitch design are padded, bringing them into relief and giving dimension to the design.

It is especially sffective on a solid-colour fabric.

To do this kind of quilting, you stitch the design through two layers of fabric (top and backing) and then insert the filler (polyester or cotton batting) between them by means of slits cut into the backing.

The top layer is usually a tightly woven fabric, such as broadcloth or sateen.

Because the filler is inserted through the backing the best choice for this is a loosely woven fabric, such as lightweight muslin, voile, or cheesecloth.

To protect the back of the quilt and conceal the ragged edges left from the insertion of filler, the work should be lined with fabric of a type similar to that used for the top layer.

For quilting stitches, use cotton quilting thread or a synthetic thread of a similar weight. Silk twist can be used for a richer look.

The designs best suited to this type of quilting include mofifs and curved geometrics composed of many small sections, It is difficult to stuff large areas uniformly.

There are many other kinds of quilting, I will be adding more, like Corded Quilting, Quilting in units: pillow quilting, and puff quilting. Also Care of Quilts in washing and storing.

A purl stitch is the reverse side of a knit stitch.

Its loop structure is a horizontal semicircle, whereas the knit loop is vertical and flat.

In forming a purl stitch, the movements are the reverse of those used for knitting.

The needle enters the front of the stitch from right to left, and the yarn, held in front of the work, is cast over the needle back to front.

When yarn is controlled with the right hand (as shown in 1st picture below)purl stitches tend to be looser than the knitted ones.

This is because the yarn must be cast farther to form a purl stitch than is required for the knit movements.

1. Grasp the needle with cast-on stitches in the left hand.

First stitch should be about 2cm from tip of needle.

Take yarn around little finger of the right hand, under the next two fingers, and over the top of the index finger, extending it about 5 cm from the first stitch.

2. Holding yarn in front of the work (as shown in picture 2 below) * insert right needle into the front of the first stitch from right to left (needle tip points upward slighty).

With the right index finger, take yarn backwards over the right needle, then forward and under it.

3. Draw the loop on the right needle backwards through the stitch, at the same time pushing the stitch on the left needle towards the tip.(as shown in picture 3 below).

4. Allow that stitch to slide off left needle.

New Stitch the loop just made remains on the right needle*

(as shown in picture 4 below).

Repeat steps between the asterisks pushing stitches forward on left needle with thumb,index and middle fingers, moving stitches back on right needle with thumb.

All knitting begins with “casting on” which means making the first row of loops on the needle.

There are various different methods of casting on, each producing different types of edges.

The image below shows you how to cast on with two knitting needles using the right-hand.

You can still learn to knit if you are Left-handed, read right-hand for left-hand.

Then, Print out a picture of the image below and prop the print-out up

in front of a mirror and follow the method of casting on.

Start by making a slip knot on the yarn end by folding it over to form a loop near the end and drawing a double loop from the yarn towards the skein to form a new loop.

Hold one needle in your left hand and slip the loop onto it,

making sure it is not too slack.

Hold the other needle in your right hand and slip the point of it through the loop from the front to the back.

Bring the yarn from the skein of wool up under the right-hand needle tip,close to the slip knot.

Using the right-hand needle tip draw a new loop through the slip loop, using your left-hand thumb and forefinger to hold the first loop steady.

Place the new loop onto the left-hand needle beside the slip knot.

Place the right-hand needle tip between the two loops and bring the yarn up under the right-hand needle tip,close to the loop.

Using the right-hand needle tip again draw a new loop through and place it on the left-hand needle.

Each new loop you add is made in the same way, beginning by placing the right-hand needle between the last 2 loops on the left-hand needle.

Once you have casted on a few stitches you can begin to knit.

Try knitting a square by casting on 20 stitches,and following the information, for the knit stitch row, and knit 20 rows to make a square.

After you have made a few squares you can sew them together and make yourself a blanket, cushion cover, plus many more things, as I will add to this blog, knitting for making toys, dolls clothes, even some very nice picture cushions, as you keep learning new stitches for knitting articles, you will get complete satisfaction in creating something new, and in these hard times, when money is not so easy to earn,we need to go back to the basic of making our own clothes, which will make it so much easier in years to come for your own family.

There are only two basic stitches, knit stitch and purl stitch, and all knitting patterns are based on combinations of these two.

Hold the needle with the stitches on it in your left hand.

Hold the empty needle in your right hand, looping the yarn round your fingers as shown in image No 4 on casting on.

Insert the point of the right-hand needle through the first stitch on the left-hand needle from front to back. The yarn is at the back of the work.Using your right forefinger, take the yarn under,up and over the right needle tip close to the stitch.

Using the right needle tip, draw a new loop towards you through the stitch.

Keep the new loop on the right-hand needle and slip the left needle out of

the old stitch now that it has been knitted.

Knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle in the same way.

Work right along the row, knitting all stitches, one by one.

When all the new stitches are on the right-hand needle, you have worked one row.

To knit the next row, hold the needle with the stitches on it in your left hand

and the empty in your right hand.

Loop the yarn around your fingers as you did before Insert the right-hand needle tip in the first stitch from front to back and knit the stitch.

Continue in the same way and knit your rows.

Rows of stitches make a looped ridged pattern called garter stitch.

If you are holding the yarn looped around your fingers properly, the yarn should move through your hand smoothly as you make each stitch.

As you lift the yarn on your forefinger, slide the joint of your thumb along

the needle towards the needle tip. Then your forefinger is in the correct place

for passing the yarn round the needle.

If after working your first row you find that the stitches are too tight to get

the needle point through you are either pulling the yarn round the needle too

tightly as you make the stitch or your fingers are too tense on the loops of

yarn from the skein of wool. Relax your fingers a little.

The secret of prefect knitting is in the tension you achieve.

Try to perfect it, while you are learning and you will be a good knitter all your

life.

My mother taught me to knit when I was about 5 years old, that’s 65 years ago, I knitted all, my 5 chidren knitwear and in the 1970- 1980 I took up Aran knitting and used to knit two Aran garments a month to earn extra income while going out to work in the rag-trade.

In fact I taught my children,my 2nd son also taught my grandchildren to knit.

In my next blog I will continue on how to do the purl stitch, also much more.

The Alzheimer’s Association also says that doll therapy is effective, patients with dementia tend to be more focused and more active whenever they carry dolls and they also communicate and act better.

Researchers claim that this happens because dolls remind patients of the times when they were caring for their own infants, and dolls help them recall memories of their life as a child.

Materials:

3 – 20g balls of double crepe in pink

1 – 20g ball in yellow

1 – 50g ball in blue

Scraps of Blue and red Yarn, 1 Button,

Kapok or similar washable stuffing’1 pair each of 4 1/2mm. (no 7) and

3 3/4mm. (no 9) knitting needles.

Tension or wool is not really important for this knitted doll  as if it is thicker wool and larger needles it will be taller, but if it is finer wool, and smaller needless it will be smaller.

With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 28 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 20cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of next 2 rows

1st row: Increase in 1st stitch., Knit to the last stitch.

2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch., Purl to the last stitch.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.

5th row: as the first row.

6th row: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more (28 sts.)

Work without shaping for 10 rows.

21st row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

22nd row: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

27 th row: as 21st row.

28th row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Purl to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

Repeat these 2 rows once more (14st).

Cast off.

With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 20 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 14cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

1st row: Knit 3 stitches turn.

Work 3 more rows on these 3 stitches, Cast Off.

With right side facing rejoin the yarn to remaining stitches, Knit 14 stitches, turn. Work 7 more rows on these 14 stitches, Cast off.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to remaining 3 stitches, work 4 rows. Cast off.

With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 24 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 18cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

1st row: Cast off 6 stitches Knit to end.

2nd row: Cast off 6 stitches Purl to end

Work 8 rows on these 12 stitches.

Change to yellow yarn, and continue in garter stitch (knit every row).

Work 2 rows

* Next Row knit 2 together, knit to the end.

Repeat this row until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end.

Repeat this row until there are 12 stitches.*

Work 10 rows

Repeat from* to* once more. Cast Off.

With 4 1/2 mm. needles and blue, cast on 30 sts.

Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 rows.

Change to stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,) Work 8 rows.

Next row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.

Work 7 rows.

Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. (22 stitches.)

Shape Armhole: (Right side Facing)

Work in garter stitch (knit every row) and stripes of 2 rows blue, 2 rowsyellow, Cast on 4 stitches,

at beginning of next 2 rows. (30 stitches).

Work 12 rows more, ending 2 row in blue.

Continue in garter stitch (knit every row) and stripes.

1st row: Knit 8, turn. Work on these stitches for 9 more rows, ending 2 rows yellow.

11 row: knit 8, cast on 7 stitches.

12th row: Knit.

work on these 15 stitches for 16 more rows, ending 2 rows in blue.

29th row: With blue, cast off 4 stitches, knit to the end.

Break yarn and with rightside facing rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at front neck.

Cast off 14 stitches at centre front neck and complete other shoulder to match reversing shapings.

30th row: Purl

Work 6 more rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,).

Next rows Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch increase in last stitch.

Work 7 more rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,).

Repeat these 8 rows 3 more times (30 stitches).

Change to garter stitch (knit every row) Work 6 rows. Cast off.

With rightside of work facing and with With 4 1/2 mm. needles and blue, knit up 30 stitches along armhole edge. Work 5 rows in garter stitch (knit every row). Cast off.

Repeat for remaining armhole.

Join side seams of head and body.

Stuff and sew up lower seam.

Jion seams of arms and legs, shaping foot by joining toe seams and heel seams, and joining cast off stitches of shoe to cast off stitches of leg. Stuff and sew up, sew to body at appropriate places. Join side seams of dress. Work 1 row of double crochet around neck edge, with a loop for button at back opening.

Sew on button.

Embroider eyes and mouth as in image of Floppy Flora.

With remainder of yellow yarn make a hank approx 25 cm wide, sew centre of hank across top of head from front to back, sewing down each thread.

Make two twisted cords in contrast colour, each approx 20cm, long and use these to tie hair into bunches.

Tatting is a form of Lacework that consists of one knot, called double stitch,

worked in groups over a single thread.

This thread is pulled to draw stitches into a curved formation called rings

and chains, and these in turn are joined in larger grouping or motifs.

traditionally, the technique has been used to make edgings and insertions,

but a tatting enthusiast can produce a large item such as a tablecloth.

This lace is usually worked with fine cotton thread, so it is delicate looking

but very strong.

In the tatting procedure, a continuous thread is used and it is wound on a small shuttle.

A loop of thread is held in the left hand while the shuttle held by the right hand, is manoeuvred around it, double stitches form over the shuttle thread.

There are two main types of tatting shuttle commonly available.

One  has a removeable bobbin to hold the thread and a hook at one end for joining rings.

The other shuttle has a central post around which the thread is wound, and comes with a separate small steel crochet hook to use for joining.

The best thread for tatting is smooth cotton with a firm twist.

Special Tatting cotton is available in some places but mercerized crochet up to size 10 is generally used.

For a thicker, softer effect, number 8 or 5 pearl cotton can be used.

In the above image you can see the diffrent thicknesses of crochet cotton used in tatting.

Here is how it is done:

Decorative beads are strung onto the thread as it is wound onto the shuttle or bobbin.

Beads are brought into loop around the hand as a ring is worked, then moved into position when required. Keep beads not in use wound three turns back in the shuttle.

You can work with two threads which enlarges the scope of tatting.

It permits introduction of a second colour, and allows you to work stitches over the connecting threads between rings – a formation called chain (ch).

For working two threads of one colour, the preferred method is to use a shuttle plus ball of yarn and work over the ball thread to form chains.

Tatting with two colours usually requires two shuttles.

Needlepoint, is a form of embroidery.

Embroidery was commonly referred to as “canvas work” before the 19th century.

Today, canvas work is called needlepoint.

While embroidery is worked on either cloth or canvas.

Needlepoint is worked primarily on canvas.

Yarns for Needlepoint (canvas) work come in serveral fibres,

weights, and textures,as well as many loverly colours.

One of the most important criteria of yarn selection is weight or thickness.

The weight or yarn varies with the type: tapestry yarn, for example, is thinner than rug yarn. The yarn should be thin enough to slide through the holes of the canvas easily and without distortion, but thick enough to cover the canvas in stitch form.In general, the larger the canvas gauge, the heavier

or thicker the yarn should be.

Tapestry wool - a firm well-twisted wool in hanks, also known as tapisserie or gobelin wool.

Crewel wool – A fine 2ply single strand of wool for crewel embroidery

or fine canvas work.

Persian Yarn – This wool has three 2-ply strands which can be

separated for fine work. Has a crinklier appearance than tapestry wool.

Rug Yarn – A thick yarn made of wool, acrylic, or a mixture of wool and synthetic fibre. Rug wool is made from long fibre wool and is very durable. Different thicknesses are available in balls and hanks.

Also known as carpet yarn.

Stranded embroidery cotton – A six strand mercerized cotton thread which can be separated into different thicknesses, there are many

beautiful shades of colour in skeins of 8 to 10 metres,

Also known as floss or mouline.

Pearl cotton – A lustrous 2-ply single-stranded mercerized cotton thread

Sold in skeins or balls in a large range of colour.

Viscose Yarn – A sort 4-ply yarn for embroidery or canvas work.

Hasa slight sheen. Not as resistant to abrasion as wool.

Soft Embroidery Cotton – A thick, soft, well twisted unmercerized cotton

thread with a matt finish. Wide range of colours in skeins.

Also known as retors a broder.

Metallic Cord – Available from specialist suppliers in gold and silver.

Used for highlights in canvas work designs, best sewn over a background

of wool or other yarn.

Needlepoint (Tapestry) Needle – have large eyes and blunt points,

making them prefect for all canvas work.

They range in size from size 18, the heaviest, to size 24, the finest.

Select the needle sizes according to the gauge of the canvas that is

being worked.

Needlepoint Stitches – are “patterned” stitches.

That is to say, stitches that have pre-determined counted patterns.

There are literally hundreds of needlepoint stitches.

Many of these stitches started out as embroidery stitches and have

been adjusted for needlepoint canvas.

Some of the more common needlepoint stitches are:

cross stitch, bargello, gobelin stitch, basketweave, tent stitch,

continental stitch, back stitch, chain stitch, and diagonal stitch.

These are just a few of the many needlepoint stitches available today.

These are the definitions of tapestry, embroidery and needlepoint

in the most simple of terms.

Basically, tapestry is the art of weaving the design into a fabric,

thus becoming the fabric itself.

Embroidery is the art of embellishing and decorating an existing fabric.

Needlepoint is the art of working the design into canvas.

Whichever type of needlework you choose to engage in, all have the

capacity to give many hours of creative pleasure to you.

This is a image of different types of canvas you can use for needlepoint.

Something you can do for christmas gifts, to keep expenses down,

made with your own hands – a hand-made gift with love.

Crocheting is an art,caught up by people,who have a flair for creativity which is beautiful.

As a needle craft, crocheting has stood the test of time and, in fact, it has never been more popular than it is today thanks to the resurgence of vintage-style fashions and decorating.

Crochet is used to make a variety of things, that range from doilies, table cloths, mats, runners, baby dresses, bonnets and bootees, to name a few.

Scarves, bags, purses and belts also add to the choice of gifts you can make.

You can crochet necklaces, earrings and bracelets,some very nice thread available for this.

It is not a complicated thing and can be done with the simplest of steps.

You can also learn how to incorporate crochet with beads, embroidery and knitting.

You’ll be amazed at how easily it is to pick up the art.

Once you have picked up the simple steps, you can progress to the more complicated steps in crochet.

If not sure how to do the basic stitches in crocheting, check out.

One of my earlier blog in Needlecraft Superior

So now for those Patchwork Motifs:

A simple centre motif surrounded by rows of double crochet, more interesting when worked in two or more colours.

Round one is crocheted over a double yarn strand instead of the usual ring of chains.

Wind yarn twice around tip of index finger to form a ring.

Round 1: 16 double crochet in ring

Round 2: (1 double crochet, 10 chain, skip 3 double crochet) 4 times, slip stitch in 1 st double crochet, fasten off.

Round 3: using new colour, (11 double crochet in the 10 chain space, 1 double crochet in next double crochet) 4 times, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, fasten off.

Round 4: Using new colour *1 double crochet into each of 6 stitches, 2 double crochet in next stitch to form the corner. 1 double crochet in each of the 5 stitches*, rep from * 3 times, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, fasten off.

Round 5: 1 double crochet in each stitch and 2 double crochet at each corner, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, Repeat round 5 as many times as desired for size, changing colours as it suits you. fasten off.

Long chains are the flower petals.

Chain 5 join in a ring with a slip stitch.

Round 1: 12 double crochets in ring, slip stitch in 1st double crochet to close.

Round 2: (chain 11 stitches, slip stitch in next double crochet) 12 times.

Round 3: Slip stitch in each of 1st 6 chain of 1st chain loop.* chain 4, 1 double crochet in central stitch

of next chain loop, chain 4, 1 cluster in next chain loop [(yarn round hook, insert hook, draw up a loop, yarn round hook draw through 2 loops,) 3 times in same chain loop, yarn round hook, draw through all 4 loops], chain 4, 1 cluster in same chain loop to form corner, chain 4, 1 double crochet in next loop*, repeat from* 3 times

Round 4: 2 slip stitches in 1st 4-chain space, chain 3,(yarn round hook, insert hook in the same space, draw up a loop,  yarn round hook, draw through 2 loops) twice, yarn round hook, draw through all 3 loops,* chain 4, 1 double crochet  in next 4-chain space, chain 4, (1 cluster, chain 4, 1 cluster) in corner space, chain 4, 1 double crochet in next 4-chain space, chain 4, 1 cluster in next 4-chain space*, repeat from * 3 times, chain 4, slip stitch in top of 1 stitch cluster to close, fasten off.

If not sure what a slip stitch is : it’s a very short stitch used principally for joining, as in a closing of a ring or motif ring, or the seaming of two finished pieces. Though not used to produce fabric, it is sometimes worked along an edge to strengthen it and to minimize stretching.

Slip Stitch: Insert hook in chain (or stitch), catch the yarn, draw a loop through both the chain and the loop on the hook.

This blog is posted as Food For Thought.

Needlecraft of any kind, is a great way to create inexpensive gifts

and ensure that your beloved younger family members have a precious gift to

remember those days, (the joy you brought to their lives).

It will meet the need of a gift for any occasion.

Giving a personally made gift, will teach children to make their own and save

instead of spending, as they enjoy the needlework you have given them.

It will comprehend the ability of future generations to meet their own needs

by teaching them needlecrafts to enjoy.

If they receive a personally made needlecraft article, they may take a interest

in learning to create one also.

Shoppers are becoming more aware of the strain on our planet and are

taking an interest in producing their own goods, needlecraft arts are something which will never be forgotten as the years go by,like growing your own food, to cut down on the grocery bill, reviving traditional skills such as spinning and needlework to make their own clothing, it is a great saving to a already stretch budget.

Now is the time to teach our young one’s art,that will never be forgotten,

with the times becoming so much harder economically, sustainability makes

good sense.

Budgets that are already tight don’t allow for much that isn’t a real necessity,

and now is the time to start a renewed interest in needlecraft arts as both

entertainment and practicality to save expenses.

Why not try to give a personally made needlecraft gift thats not expensive?

While surfing around some needlecraft websites, I came upon this site it is

worth taking a look at, if you have spare time you may like to contribute to it.

Coral Reef Crocheted wild Crochet Hyperbolic Coral Reef display.

They call the display a “celebration of geometry, handicraft and marine wonders.”

The image shows crocheted “striated coral” made by Daina Taimina, with “brain corals” by Spring Pace. The project is a collaborative one so if you want to contribute you can.

They are inviting crocheters everywhere to contribute models to the reef.

This is a collective project and all contributors will be fully acknowledged online and in future exhibitions.

There are also a few on Flickr.

Please check it out, it is beautiful artwork of crocheting.

magazines for vintage patterns, (which are publications that are 30 years

old or more,they are usually considered to be vintage),for some idea’s for

a different approach to fashion ideas for the 21st century.

I will be adding Vintage patterns to this Needlecraft Superior blog which

will include techniques and projects not available in all modern books.

Here is a idea for a change to a favourite top, or brightening up the

appearance of last seasons outfits.

Crocheting with a metallic yarn or a bright coloured knitting cotton, these

motifs which you can attach to your tops, skirt or shorts,or even crochet a

few motifs in a metallic thread and make a necklace,leg or arm bracelet or

just for brightening up a christmas gift, as they do not take long to crochet.

Motifs are composed of stitches worked around a centre ring.

You can also use them joined together in a patchwork.

The centre ring of a motif is usually a chain joined with a slip-stitch.

The first row, called a round, is worked into this circle, with stitches

taken over the chain, and adjusted to fit evenly around.

Each subsequent round is worked from the right side and closed with a

slip-stitch at the starting point, The last round is fasten off.

1st image:(this one is a little hard if you are a beginner).

To form the centre, chain 4 and join in a ring with a slip-stitch.

Round 1: 13 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch to 1st double crochet,

at beginning of round to close. Fasten off.

Round 2: using a second colour,make 1 petal into the front strand of each

double crochet of round 1, {like this}

( 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in 2nd chain from hook,

1 half treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain, 1 double crochet

in the next chain, 1 double crochet at beginning),

total of 13 petals.

Round 3: make 1 petal into the back strand of each double crochet of round 1

{like this}(1 slip stitch, chain 6, 1 double crochet in 5 of these 6 chains).

Total of 13 petals, Fasten off.

(In my last blog I explained how to do a double and treble crochet).

yarn around hook and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook).

yarn around hook and draw the loop through 3 loops to complete stitch.

Middle image below.

Chain 6 and join in a ring with a slip stitch.

Round 1: 14 double crochet in ring, slip stitch into 1st double crochet at

beginning of round to close.

Round 2: (into front strand of each double crochet work 1 double crochet,

chain 6, 1 double crochet) 14 times, slip stitch to 1st double crochet to close.

Round 3: ( into back strand of each double crochet in round 1 work 1 double

crochet, chain 8, 1 doble crochet ) 14 times.

Slip stitch to the 1st double crochet. Fasten off.

3rd image below.

Chain 6 and join into a ring with a slip stitch.

Round 1: Chain 2, 23 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch in 2nd chain

at beginning or middle to close.

Round2: chain 4, 1 half treble crochet in same chain as last slip stitch,

chain 1 (skip 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet in next stitch, chain 2, 1 treble

chain 1) 7 times, slip stitch in 2nd-chain space at the beginning of round

to close.

Round 3: chain 2,(1 half treble, chain 2, 2 half treble) in last chain at

beginning of round 2, 1 double crochetin 1st chain space,

*2 half trebles, chain 2, 2 half trebles) in 2nd chain space, 1 double crochet

in the 1st chain space* repeat from * to* 6 times, slip stitch in 2nd chain

at beginning of round.

Round 4: *(3 treble crochet, chain 1, 3 Treble crochet) in the 2 chain space,

1 double crochet on each side of the double crochet*, repeat from * to *

8 times, Fasten off.

In Checking out the trendy catalogs and boutiques, I have found that

crochet is making a very fashionable return.

But even with all that popularity, there’s no need to pay designer prices

for trendy crocheted clothes.

For wonderful wearables for christmas holiday’s or a special gift for

family or friends, why not make your own?

It is not hard to make gifts by crocheting them yourselve.

Some idea’s of gift’s made with crochet mesh stitches, fancy overskirts,

sweaters, bracelets, belts, chokers, halter tops, bolero’s, hats, bags and

totes, you do not even to have to buy the pattern, follow the easy to

crochet stitches in the images below, showing you how to decrease and

increase at the beginning and end of the row.

Using beatuiful soft mohair yarn, or even a silk ribbon tank top or poncho

for those cooler daylight-saving evenings.

Crochet Meshes design’s consist of chain stitches, double crochet or treble

crochet stitches combined in such a way that they form open spaces which

make a cool but refreshing fashionable garment, which is right up with

the lastest trends of creations.

It is used to form the first row (the foundation)

it should be formed fairly loosely, so that the hook can enter each chain

easily, and the edge of the work will not draw.

To start making a chain stitch, make a slip knot about 15 cm from the yarn

end; insert the hook, holding both ends of the yarn, pull one end of the

yarn through with the crochet hook forming a loop but not too tight,then

holding the yarn around the fingers insert the hook through the loop and

pull the thread through the loop again forming another loop, continue this

way,forming chains until you have the required number of chain stitches for

the foundation, (remembering to keep the yarn fairly loose as working it).

First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,( the foundation)

then insert the hook in 2nd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw the loop

through the chain (2 loops on the hook), yarn round hook and draw through

2 loops to complete the stitch. Makes one double crochet, (known as dc in

crochet pattern) in each chain stitch across the row, after the last

stitch chain 1 and turn; insert in 1 st stitch to start another row.

This makes a nice firm flat fabric, often used to finish edges of other

stitch patterns, and sometimes to join two finished sections.

Twice as tall as double crochet and less compact; forms the basis of many

pattern stitches.

First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,then, catch yarn

around the hook and insert hook in 4th chain from hook, catch yarn

and draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook), yarn round hook

and draw through 2 loops, yarn round hook and draw through last 2 loops

to complete stitch.Makes 1 Treble crochet,(known as tc in crochet patterns).

make 1 treble crochet stitch in each chain aross the row, after the last

stitch, chain 3 and turn, yarn around hook, insert hook in 2nd stitch

to start another row.

Diamond mesh is a flexible stitch that is especially suitable for those

trendy fashionable overshirts.

Images below shows you how the Crochet Mesh Patterns look.

Top lefthand image.

To start do Multiples of 4 ch – plus 2 extra at the end for the start of

garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 1 chain, 1 dc (double crochet) in next chain

* chain 5, skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet in next chain*.

repeat from *-* then 1 double crochet. chain 5,turn

Row 2: * 1 dc in next chain space, chain 5*. repeat *-* to the end, turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght or shaping.

If wanting to decrease or increase work as in shaping mesh ground image on

right-hand (1, 2, 3,) image.

Image 1. To decrease a space at the end of a row.

Do not work the the last space ( the one formed by the turning chain).

instead chain 4 (for mesh ground 1) or chain 5 (for mesh ground 2) and turn:

work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet.

The resulting space will be triangular rather than square.

Image 2. To decrease a space at the beginning of a row.

do not make the usual turning chain: instead chain 1 and turn make 1 slip

stitch up to the next treble crochet. then 1 slip stitch in the treble

crochet, then 1 slip stitch in the treble stitch; chain 4

(for mesh ground 2) and continue with the mesh pattern starting with

1 treble crochet in the next stitch.

Image 3. To increase a space at the beginning of the row.

do not make the usual turning chain; instead chain 5 (for mesh ground 1) or

chain 7 (for mess ground 2) and turn;

work 1 treble crochet in first stitch of the previous row.

Middle left-hand side image

To start do Multiples of 4 ch – plus 10 extra at the end for the start of

garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 9 chain, *1 tr (treble crochet) in next chain

ch 4, sk 3 ch,*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 tr. ch 8,turn

Row 2: * 1 tr in the 4-ch space, chain 4*. repeat *-* to the last stitch,

1 tr, ch 8,turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.

Last Left-hand side image

Multiples of 7 ch – plus 2 extra at the end for the start of

garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet in next ch,*chain 2, 1 picot made

like this:

(ch 5, sl st in 1st of these 5 ch), chain 3,1 picot, ch 2, skip 6 chain,

1 dc*, repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then,turn

Row 2: 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot, chain 2, 1 double crochet in chain

space between picots of previous row, *chain 2. 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot,

chain 2. 1 double crochet in the chain space*.

repeat *-* to the last stitch, chain 2, turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.

Top Centre image.

These are more complicated mesh patterns,

leave a comment below if you need more information and I will reply.

Lenghted chains form an open mesh that is similar in appearence to

netting. The lenghtened loop can be adjusted as desired.

15 mm is the typical recommendation for a loop lenght in many instructions,

any lenght is suitable as long as it is consistent.

General rule is to make a longer loop for a thick yarn, a shorter loop for

a fine one.

multiple of 4 chains plus 2

Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet. 1 single knot – Made like this:

(lenghten loop to desired lenght “say 15 mm”, draw up a loop, take hook

across front of lenghten loop and insert it under yarn of chain just completed,

work 1 double crochet), make another knot, * skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet

in next chain, 1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch

1 single knot, turn (total of 3 single knots for turning).

Row 2: * 1 double crochet in centre of double knot in previous row,

1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch, 1 single knot. turn.

Work from Row 2.

Middle Centre image.

Multiples of 4 chain – plus 6 extra chains at the end, for the start of

garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: skip 5 chain,*1 treble crochet into the next chain, chain 3,

skip 3 chain*.repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 treble crochet,

chain 4, turn

Row 2: * 1 double crochet in 2nd chain of 3-chain group, chain 2, 1 treble

crochet in next treble crochet, chain 2*. 1 double crochet in turning

chain of previous row. chain 5, turn

Row 3: *1 treble crochet, chain 3*.  repeat from *-*  to the last stitch,

1 treble crochet in turning chain of previous row, chain 4, turn.

Repeat from row 2.

Bottom Centre image.

Multiples of 6 chain – plus 3 extra chains at the end, for the start of

garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: Skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of next 2 chains,

*chain 3, skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chains*,

chain 3, skip 3 chain, 1 treble crochet in last chain, chain 3, turn

Row 2: 2 treble crochet in 1st 3-chain space,

* chain 3, 3 treble crochet in next 3-chain space*. repeat from *-*

to the last stitch, chain 3, 1 treble crochet in top of turning chain,

chain 3,turn

Repeat from Row 2.until you have the desired lenght required, remembering

the increasing or decreasing above.