Floppy Flora (Knit for Health) Project!

September 2nd, 2010
If you have free time on your hands and would like to be a little creative and help dementia patients, Hand Knitted Dolls,has been proven that they have healing effects on people suffering from dementia.
The Alzheimer’s Association also says that doll therapy is effective, patients with dementia tend to be more focused and more active whenever they carry dolls and they also communicate and act better.
Researchers claim that this happens because dolls remind patients of the times when they were caring for their own infants, and dolls help them recall memories of their life as a child.
Pattern for a knitted Doll – lenght 51cm (20″) Doll.
Floppy Flora
Materials:
3 – 20g balls of double crepe in pink
1 – 20g ball in yellow
1 – 50g ball in blue
Scraps of Blue and red Yarn, 1 Button,
Kapok or similar washable stuffing’1 pair each of 4 1/2mm. (no 7) and
3 3/4mm. (no 9) knitting needles.
Tension or wool is not really important for this knitted doll  as if it is thicker wool and larger needles it will be taller, but if it is finer wool, and smaller needless it will be smaller.
Body and Head: (make 2)
With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 28 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 20cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of next 2 rows
Shape Head:
1st row: Increase in 1st stitch., Knit to the last stitch.
2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch., Purl to the last stitch.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
5th row: as the first row.
6th row: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more (28 sts.)
Work without shaping for 10 rows.
21st row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.
22nd row: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.
27 th row: as 21st row.
28th row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Purl to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.
Repeat these 2 rows once more (14st).
Cast off.
Arms: (make 2)
With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 20 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 14cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Hand:
1st row: Knit 3 stitches turn.
Work 3 more rows on these 3 stitches, Cast Off.
With right side facing rejoin the yarn to remaining stitches, Knit 14 stitches, turn. Work 7 more rows on these 14 stitches, Cast off.
With right side facing rejoin yarn to remaining 3 stitches, work 4 rows. Cast off.
Legs: (make 2)
With 3 3/4 mm. needles and pink, cast on 24 sts. Starting with a Knit row, work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl). until piece measures 18cm. from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Foot:
1st row: Cast off 6 stitches Knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 6 stitches Purl to end
Work 8 rows on these 12 stitches.
Change to yellow yarn, and continue in garter stitch (knit every row).
Work 2 rows
* Next Row knit 2 together, knit to the end.
Repeat this row until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end.
Repeat this row until there are 12 stitches.*
Work 10 rows
Repeat from* to* once more. Cast Off.
Dress:
With 4 1/2 mm. needles and blue, cast on 30 sts.
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 rows.
Change to stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,) Work 8 rows.
Next row: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over, Knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.
Work 7 rows.
Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. (22 stitches.)
Shape Armhole: (Right side Facing)
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) and stripes of 2 rows blue, 2 rowsyellow, Cast on 4 stitches,
at beginning of next 2 rows. (30 stitches).
Work 12 rows more, ending 2 row in blue.
Shape Shoulder:
Continue in garter stitch (knit every row) and stripes.
1st row: Knit 8, turn. Work on these stitches for 9 more rows, ending 2 rows yellow.
11 row: knit 8, cast on 7 stitches.
12th row: Knit.
work on these 15 stitches for 16 more rows, ending 2 rows in blue.
29th row: With blue, cast off 4 stitches, knit to the end.
Break yarn and with rightside facing rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at front neck.
Cast off 14 stitches at centre front neck and complete other shoulder to match reversing shapings.
Dress Back:
30th row: Purl
Work 6 more rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,).
Next rows Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch increase in last stitch.
Work 7 more rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl,).
Repeat these 8 rows 3 more times (30 stitches).
Change to garter stitch (knit every row) Work 6 rows. Cast off.
Armhole Edging:
With rightside of work facing and with With 4 1/2 mm. needles and blue, knit up 30 stitches along armhole edge. Work 5 rows in garter stitch (knit every row). Cast off.
Repeat for remaining armhole.
To Make Up:
Join side seams of head and body.
Stuff and sew up lower seam.
Jion seams of arms and legs, shaping foot by joining toe seams and heel seams, and joining cast off stitches of shoe to cast off stitches of leg. Stuff and sew up, sew to body at appropriate places. Join side seams of dress. Work 1 row of double crochet around neck edge, with a loop for button at back opening.
Sew on button.
Embroider eyes and mouth as in image of Floppy Flora.
With remainder of yellow yarn make a hank approx 25 cm wide, sew centre of hank across top of head from front to back, sewing down each thread.
Make two twisted cords in contrast colour, each approx 20cm, long and use these to tie hair into bunches.
Floppy Flora

Tatting!

September 1st, 2010
What is Tatting?
Tatting is a form of Lacework that consists of one knot, called double stitch,
worked in groups over a single thread.
This thread is pulled to draw stitches into a curved formation called rings
and chains, and these in turn are joined in larger grouping or motifs.
traditionally, the technique has been used to make edgings and insertions,
but a tatting enthusiast can produce a large item such as a tablecloth.
This lace is usually worked with fine cotton thread, so it is delicate looking
but very strong.
In the tatting procedure, a continuous thread is used and it is wound on a small shuttle.
A loop of thread is held in the left hand while the shuttle held by the right hand, is manoeuvred around it, double stitches form over the shuttle thread.
There are two main types of tatting shuttle commonly available.
One  has a removeable bobbin to hold the thread and a hook at one end for joining rings.
The other shuttle has a central post around which the thread is wound, and comes with a separate small steel crochet hook to use for joining.
The best thread for tatting is smooth cotton with a firm twist.
Special Tatting cotton is available in some places but mercerized crochet up to size 10 is generally used.
For a thicker, softer effect, number 8 or 5 pearl cotton can be used.
In the above image you can see the diffrent thicknesses of crochet cotton used in tatting.
Interesting decorative idea is attaching beads in your tatting.
Here is how it is done:
Decorative beads are strung onto the thread as it is wound onto the shuttle or bobbin.
Beads are brought into loop around the hand as a ring is worked, then moved into position when required. Keep beads not in use wound three turns back in the shuttle.
You can work with two threads which enlarges the scope of tatting.
It permits introduction of a second colour, and allows you to work stitches over the connecting threads between rings – a formation called chain (ch).
For working two threads of one colour, the preferred method is to use a shuttle plus ball of yarn and work over the ball thread to form chains.
Tatting with two colours usually requires two shuttles.
Tatting

NEEDLEPOINT!

August 27th, 2010
NEEDLEPOINT (canvas  work.)
What is needlepoint?
Needlepoint, is a form of embroidery.
Embroidery was commonly referred to as “canvas work” before the 19th century.
Today, canvas work is called needlepoint.
While embroidery is worked on either cloth or canvas.
Needlepoint is worked primarily on canvas.
Yarns.
Yarns for Needlepoint (canvas) work come in serveral fibres,
weights, and textures,as well as many loverly colours.
One of the most important criteria of yarn selection is weight or thickness.
The weight or yarn varies with the type: tapestry yarn, for example, is thinner than rug yarn. The yarn should be thin enough to slide through the holes of the canvas easily and without distortion, but thick enough to cover the canvas in stitch form.In general, the larger the canvas gauge, the heavier
or thicker the yarn should be.
Yarns you can use for Needlepoint.
Tapestry wool - a firm well-twisted wool in hanks, also known as tapisserie or gobelin wool.
Crewel wool – A fine 2ply single strand of wool for crewel embroidery
or fine canvas work.
Persian Yarn – This wool has three 2-ply strands which can be
separated for fine work. Has a crinklier appearance than tapestry wool.
Rug Yarn – A thick yarn made of wool, acrylic, or a mixture of wool and synthetic fibre. Rug wool is made from long fibre wool and is very durable. Different thicknesses are available in balls and hanks.
Also known as carpet yarn.
Stranded embroidery cotton – A six strand mercerized cotton thread which can be separated into different thicknesses, there are many
beautiful shades of colour in skeins of 8 to 10 metres,
Also known as floss or mouline.
Pearl cotton – A lustrous 2-ply single-stranded mercerized cotton thread
Sold in skeins or balls in a large range of colour.
Viscose Yarn – A sort 4-ply yarn for embroidery or canvas work.
Hasa slight sheen. Not as resistant to abrasion as wool.
Soft Embroidery Cotton – A thick, soft, well twisted unmercerized cotton
thread with a matt finish. Wide range of colours in skeins.
Also known as retors a broder.
Metallic Cord – Available from specialist suppliers in gold and silver.
Used for highlights in canvas work designs, best sewn over a background
of wool or other yarn.
Needlepoint (Tapestry) Needle – have large eyes and blunt points,
making them prefect for all canvas work.
They range in size from size 18, the heaviest, to size 24, the finest.
Select the needle sizes according to the gauge of the canvas that is
being worked.
Needlepoint Stitches – are “patterned” stitches.
That is to say, stitches that have pre-determined counted patterns.
There are literally hundreds of needlepoint stitches.
Many of these stitches started out as embroidery stitches and have
been adjusted for needlepoint canvas.
Some of the more common needlepoint stitches are:
cross stitch, bargello, gobelin stitch, basketweave, tent stitch,
continental stitch, back stitch, chain stitch, and diagonal stitch.
These are just a few of the many needlepoint stitches available today.
These are the definitions of tapestry, embroidery and needlepoint
in the most simple of terms.
Basically, tapestry is the art of weaving the design into a fabric,
thus becoming the fabric itself.
Embroidery is the art of embellishing and decorating an existing fabric.
Needlepoint is the art of working the design into canvas.
Whichever type of needlework you choose to engage in, all have the
capacity to give many hours of creative pleasure to you.
This is a image of different types of canvas you can use for needlepoint.
canvas

How to Crochet Patchwork Motifs!

August 26th, 2010
Planning To Crochet – Here’s some easy Patchwork Motifs
Something you can do for christmas gifts, to keep expenses down,
made with your own hands – a hand-made gift with love.
Crocheting is an art,caught up by people,who have a flair for creativity which is beautiful.
As a needle craft, crocheting has stood the test of time and, in fact, it has never been more popular than it is today thanks to the resurgence of vintage-style fashions and decorating.
Crochet is used to make a variety of things, that range from doilies, table cloths, mats, runners, baby dresses, bonnets and bootees, to name a few.
Scarves, bags, purses and belts also add to the choice of gifts you can make.
You can crochet necklaces, earrings and bracelets,some very nice thread available for this.
It is not a complicated thing and can be done with the simplest of steps.
You can also learn how to incorporate crochet with beads, embroidery and knitting.
You’ll be amazed at how easily it is to pick up the art.
Once you have picked up the simple steps, you can progress to the more complicated steps in crochet.
If not sure how to do the basic stitches in crocheting, check out.
CROCHET MESH STITCHES- How to Techniques!
One of my earlier blog in Needlecraft Superior
So now for those Patchwork Motifs:
Eyelet Square Patchwork Motif:
A simple centre motif surrounded by rows of double crochet, more interesting when worked in two or more colours.
Round one is crocheted over a double yarn strand instead of the usual ring of chains.
Wind yarn twice around tip of index finger to form a ring.
Round 1: 16 double crochet in ring
Round 2: (1 double crochet, 10 chain, skip 3 double crochet) 4 times, slip stitch in 1 st double crochet, fasten off.
Round 3: using new colour, (11 double crochet in the 10 chain space, 1 double crochet in next double crochet) 4 times, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, fasten off.
Round 4: Using new colour *1 double crochet into each of 6 stitches, 2 double crochet in next stitch to form the corner. 1 double crochet in each of the 5 stitches*, rep from * 3 times, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, fasten off.
Round 5: 1 double crochet in each stitch and 2 double crochet at each corner, slip stitch in 1st double crochet, Repeat round 5 as many times as desired for size, changing colours as it suits you. fasten off.
Flower in a Square Patchwork Motif:
Long chains are the flower petals.
Chain 5 join in a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1: 12 double crochets in ring, slip stitch in 1st double crochet to close.
Round 2: (chain 11 stitches, slip stitch in next double crochet) 12 times.
Round 3: Slip stitch in each of 1st 6 chain of 1st chain loop.* chain 4, 1 double crochet in central stitch
of next chain loop, chain 4, 1 cluster in next chain loop [(yarn round hook, insert hook, draw up a loop, yarn round hook draw through 2 loops,) 3 times in same chain loop, yarn round hook, draw through all 4 loops], chain 4, 1 cluster in same chain loop to form corner, chain 4, 1 double crochet in next loop*, repeat from* 3 times
Round 4: 2 slip stitches in 1st 4-chain space, chain 3,(yarn round hook, insert hook in the same space, draw up a loop,  yarn round hook, draw through 2 loops) twice, yarn round hook, draw through all 3 loops,* chain 4, 1 double crochet  in next 4-chain space, chain 4, (1 cluster, chain 4, 1 cluster) in corner space, chain 4, 1 double crochet in next 4-chain space, chain 4, 1 cluster in next 4-chain space*, repeat from * 3 times, chain 4, slip stitch in top of 1 stitch cluster to close, fasten off.
If not sure what a slip stitch is : it’s a very short stitch used principally for joining, as in a closing of a ring or motif ring, or the seaming of two finished pieces. Though not used to produce fabric, it is sometimes worked along an edge to strengthen it and to minimize stretching.
Slip Stitch: Insert hook in chain (or stitch), catch the yarn, draw a loop through both the chain and the loop on the hook.
Patchwork_Motifs

Eyelet Square Patchwork Motif                      Flower in a Square Patchwork Motif

NEEDLECRAFT GIFT’S ARE NOT EXPENSIVE!

August 26th, 2010
GIVE A NEEDLECRAFT GIFT, THAT’S MADE BY YOU, IT’S NOT EXPENSIVE!
This blog is posted as Food For Thought.
Needlecraft of any kind, is a great way to create inexpensive gifts
and ensure that your beloved younger family members have a precious gift to
remember those days, (the joy you brought to their lives).
It will meet the need of a gift for any occasion.
Giving a personally made gift, will teach children to make their own and save
instead of spending, as they enjoy the needlework you have given them.
It will comprehend the ability of future generations to meet their own needs
by teaching them needlecrafts to enjoy.
If they receive a personally made needlecraft article, they may take a interest
in learning to create one also.
Shoppers are becoming more aware of the strain on our planet and are
taking an interest in producing their own goods, needlecraft arts are something which will never be forgotten as the years go by,like growing your own food, to cut down on the grocery bill, reviving traditional skills such as spinning and needlework to make their own clothing, it is a great saving to a already stretch budget.
Now is the time to teach our young one’s art,that will never be forgotten,
with the times becoming so much harder economically, sustainability makes
good sense.
Budgets that are already tight don’t allow for much that isn’t a real necessity,
and now is the time to start a renewed interest in needlecraft arts as both
entertainment and practicality to save expenses.
Why not try to give a personally made needlecraft gift thats not expensive?
While surfing around some needlecraft websites, I came upon this site it is
worth taking a look at, if you have spare time you may like to contribute to it.
Coral Reef Crocheted wild Crochet Hyperbolic Coral Reef display.
They call the display a “celebration of geometry, handicraft and marine wonders.”
The image shows crocheted “striated coral” made by Daina Taimina, with “brain corals” by Spring Pace. The project is a collaborative one so if you want to contribute you can.
They are inviting crocheters everywhere to contribute models to the reef.
This is a collective project and all contributors will be fully acknowledged online and in future exhibitions.
There are also a few on Flickr.
Please check it out, it is beautiful artwork of crocheting.
Crocheted Reef

CROCHETED MOTIFS !

August 26th, 2010
For the young at heart, or a trendy miss, you maybe looking for old
magazines for vintage patterns, (which are publications that are 30 years
old or more,they are usually considered to be vintage),for some idea’s for
a different approach to fashion ideas for the 21st century.
I will be adding Vintage patterns to this Needlecraft Superior blog which
will include techniques and projects not available in all modern books.
Here is a idea for a change to a favourite top, or brightening up the
appearance of last seasons outfits.
Crocheting with a metallic yarn or a bright coloured knitting cotton, these
motifs which you can attach to your tops, skirt or shorts,or even crochet a
few motifs in a metallic thread and make a necklace,leg or arm bracelet or
just for brightening up a christmas gift, as they do not take long to crochet.
Motifs are composed of stitches worked around a centre ring.
You can also use them joined together in a patchwork.
The centre ring of a motif is usually a chain joined with a slip-stitch.
The first row, called a round, is worked into this circle, with stitches
taken over the chain, and adjusted to fit evenly around.
Each subsequent round is worked from the right side and closed with a
slip-stitch at the starting point, The last round is fasten off.
Crocheted Motifs.
Chrysanthemum.
1st image:(this one is a little hard if you are a beginner).
To form the centre, chain 4 and join in a ring with a slip-stitch.
Round 1: 13 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch to 1st double crochet,
at beginning of round to close. Fasten off.
Round 2: using a second colour,make 1 petal into the front strand of each
double crochet of round 1, {like this}
( 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in 2nd chain from hook,
1 half treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain, 1 double crochet
in the next chain, 1 double crochet at beginning),
total of 13 petals.
Round 3: make 1 petal into the back strand of each double crochet of round 1
{like this}(1 slip stitch, chain 6, 1 double crochet in 5 of these 6 chains).
Total of 13 petals, Fasten off.
(In my last blog I explained how to do a double and treble crochet).
Now Here is how to do a half treble (htc):
yarn around hook and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook).
yarn around hook and draw the loop through 3 loops to complete stitch.
Daisy Motif.
Middle image below.
Chain 6 and join in a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1: 14 double crochet in ring, slip stitch into 1st double crochet at
beginning of round to close.
Round 2: (into front strand of each double crochet work 1 double crochet,
chain 6, 1 double crochet) 14 times, slip stitch to 1st double crochet to close.
Round 3: ( into back strand of each double crochet in round 1 work 1 double
crochet, chain 8, 1 doble crochet ) 14 times.
Slip stitch to the 1st double crochet. Fasten off.
Posy Motif.
3rd image below.
Chain 6 and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1: Chain 2, 23 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch in 2nd chain
at beginning or middle to close.
Round2: chain 4, 1 half treble crochet in same chain as last slip stitch,
chain 1 (skip 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet in next stitch, chain 2, 1 treble
chain 1) 7 times, slip stitch in 2nd-chain space at the beginning of round
to close.
Round 3: chain 2,(1 half treble, chain 2, 2 half treble) in last chain at
beginning of round 2, 1 double crochetin 1st chain space,
*2 half trebles, chain 2, 2 half trebles) in 2nd chain space, 1 double crochet
in the 1st chain space* repeat from * to* 6 times, slip stitch in 2nd chain
at beginning of round.
Round 4: *(3 treble crochet, chain 1, 3 Treble crochet) in the 2 chain space,
1 double crochet on each side of the double crochet*, repeat from * to *
8 times, Fasten off.
Motifs

Crochet How to Techniques!

August 26th, 2010
CROCHET MESH STITCHES
In Checking out the trendy catalogs and boutiques, I have found that
crochet is making a very fashionable return.
But even with all that popularity, there’s no need to pay designer prices
for trendy crocheted clothes.
For wonderful wearables for christmas holiday’s or a special gift for
family or friends, why not make your own?
It is not hard to make gifts by crocheting them yourselve.
Some idea’s of gift’s made with crochet mesh stitches, fancy overskirts,
sweaters, bracelets, belts, chokers, halter tops, bolero’s, hats, bags and
totes, you do not even to have to buy the pattern, follow the easy to
crochet stitches in the images below, showing you how to decrease and
increase at the beginning and end of the row.
Using beatuiful soft mohair yarn, or even a silk ribbon tank top or poncho
for those cooler daylight-saving evenings.
Crochet Meshes design’s consist of chain stitches, double crochet or treble
crochet stitches combined in such a way that they form open spaces which
make a cool but refreshing fashionable garment, which is right up with
the lastest trends of creations.
What is a Chain stitch?
It is used to form the first row (the foundation)
it should be formed fairly loosely, so that the hook can enter each chain
easily, and the edge of the work will not draw.
To start making a chain stitch, make a slip knot about 15 cm from the yarn
end; insert the hook, holding both ends of the yarn, pull one end of the
yarn through with the crochet hook forming a loop but not too tight,then
holding the yarn around the fingers insert the hook through the loop and
pull the thread through the loop again forming another loop, continue this
way,forming chains until you have the required number of chain stitches for
the foundation, (remembering to keep the yarn fairly loose as working it).
How to do Double Crochet!
First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,( the foundation)
then insert the hook in 2nd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw the loop
through the chain (2 loops on the hook), yarn round hook and draw through
2 loops to complete the stitch. Makes one double crochet, (known as dc in
crochet pattern) in each chain stitch across the row, after the last
stitch chain 1 and turn; insert in 1 st stitch to start another row.
This makes a nice firm flat fabric, often used to finish edges of other
stitch patterns, and sometimes to join two finished sections.
How to do a Treble Crochet!
Twice as tall as double crochet and less compact; forms the basis of many
pattern stitches.
First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,then, catch yarn
around the hook and insert hook in 4th chain from hook, catch yarn
and draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook), yarn round hook
and draw through 2 loops, yarn round hook and draw through last 2 loops
to complete stitch.Makes 1 Treble crochet,(known as tc in crochet patterns).
make 1 treble crochet stitch in each chain aross the row, after the last
stitch, chain 3 and turn, yarn around hook, insert hook in 2nd stitch
to start another row.
CROCHET MESH STITCHES.
Diamond mesh is a flexible stitch that is especially suitable for those
trendy fashionable overshirts.
Images below shows you how the Crochet Mesh Patterns look.
How to Technique for DIAMOND MESH.
Top lefthand image.
To start do Multiples of 4 ch – plus 2 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 1 chain, 1 dc (double crochet) in next chain
* chain 5, skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet in next chain*.
repeat from *-* then 1 double crochet. chain 5,turn
Row 2: * 1 dc in next chain space, chain 5*. repeat *-* to the end, turn
Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght or shaping.
SHAPING FOR MESH PATTERNS.
If wanting to decrease or increase work as in shaping mesh ground image on
right-hand (1, 2, 3,) image.
Image 1. To decrease a space at the end of a row.
Do not work the the last space ( the one formed by the turning chain).
instead chain 4 (for mesh ground 1) or chain 5 (for mesh ground 2) and turn:
work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet.
The resulting space will be triangular rather than square.
Image 2. To decrease a space at the beginning of a row.
do not make the usual turning chain: instead chain 1 and turn make 1 slip
stitch up to the next treble crochet. then 1 slip stitch in the treble
crochet, then 1 slip stitch in the treble stitch; chain 4
(for mesh ground 2) and continue with the mesh pattern starting with
1 treble crochet in the next stitch.
USE THIS METHOD ONLY WHEN DECREASES MUST BE PAIRED ON EITHER SIDE OF THE WORK.
Image 3. To increase a space at the beginning of the row.
do not make the usual turning chain; instead chain 5 (for mesh ground 1) or
chain 7 (for mess ground 2) and turn;
work 1 treble crochet in first stitch of the previous row.
How to Technique for HONEYCOMB MESH.
Middle left-hand side image
To start do Multiples of 4 ch – plus 10 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 9 chain, *1 tr (treble crochet) in next chain
ch 4, sk 3 ch,*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 tr. ch 8,turn
Row 2: * 1 tr in the 4-ch space, chain 4*. repeat *-* to the last stitch,
1 tr, ch 8,turn
Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.
How to Technique for DIAMOND PICOT MESH.
Last Left-hand side image
Multiples of 7 ch – plus 2 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet in next ch,*chain 2, 1 picot made
like this:
(ch 5, sl st in 1st of these 5 ch), chain 3,1 picot, ch 2, skip 6 chain,
1 dc*, repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then,turn
Row 2: 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot, chain 2, 1 double crochet in chain
space between picots of previous row, *chain 2. 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot,
chain 2. 1 double crochet in the chain space*.
repeat *-* to the last stitch, chain 2, turn
Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.
How to Technique for SOLOMONS KNOT MESH PATTERN.
Top Centre image.
These are more complicated mesh patterns,
leave a comment below if you need more information and I will reply.
Solomon’s Knot:
Lenghted chains form an open mesh that is similar in appearence to
netting. The lenghtened loop can be adjusted as desired.
15 mm is the typical recommendation for a loop lenght in many instructions,
any lenght is suitable as long as it is consistent.
General rule is to make a longer loop for a thick yarn, a shorter loop for
a fine one.
multiple of 4 chains plus 2
Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet. 1 single knot – Made like this:
(lenghten loop to desired lenght “say 15 mm”, draw up a loop, take hook
across front of lenghten loop and insert it under yarn of chain just completed,
work 1 double crochet), make another knot, * skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet
in next chain, 1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch
1 single knot, turn (total of 3 single knots for turning).
Row 2: * 1 double crochet in centre of double knot in previous row,
1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch, 1 single knot. turn.
Work from Row 2.
How to Technique for TRESTLE STITCH Mesh Pattern.
Middle Centre image.
Multiples of 4 chain – plus 6 extra chains at the end, for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: skip 5 chain,*1 treble crochet into the next chain, chain 3,
skip 3 chain*.repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 treble crochet,
chain 4, turn
Row 2: * 1 double crochet in 2nd chain of 3-chain group, chain 2, 1 treble
crochet in next treble crochet, chain 2*. 1 double crochet in turning
chain of previous row. chain 5, turn
Row 3: *1 treble crochet, chain 3*.  repeat from *-*  to the last stitch,
1 treble crochet in turning chain of previous row, chain 4, turn.
Repeat from row 2.
How to Technique for OPEN CHECKS.
Bottom Centre image.
Multiples of 6 chain – plus 3 extra chains at the end, for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: Skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of next 2 chains,
*chain 3, skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chains*,
chain 3, skip 3 chain, 1 treble crochet in last chain, chain 3, turn
Row 2: 2 treble crochet in 1st 3-chain space,
* chain 3, 3 treble crochet in next 3-chain space*. repeat from *-*
to the last stitch, chain 3, 1 treble crochet in top of turning chain,
chain 3,turn
Repeat from Row 2.until you have the desired lenght required, remembering
the increasing or decreasing above.
Crochet Mesh Stitches

GERBER TECHNOLOGY VERSATILE CUTTER!

August 26th, 2010
This Blog is going to be a little different to the other one’s I have submitted to
Needlecraft Superior as I will take you down a path of how the garments you buy in a fashion parlour start from the beginning.
In the old days they were laid up by hand on long tables,by hand following a order by material type and colour, hopefully the person laying it up used the right tension and did not stretch it,the garment would end up the right size, then cut by a knife going up and down,through the layers of fabric by hand, everything was okay, as long as the person that graded the pattern and draw it up on paper did not make a mistake.
Also that the person cutting the lay’s cut on the right lines correctly.
Hopefully when the machinest sewed it up, all piece of the garment fitted together.
I worked for 30 years in the Rag Trade starting as a machines and working my way through pattern grading by hand not a plotter, to a cutter.
Since the factories closing down one by one as it became uneconomical to
operate like this, they all closed down or went offshore.
Early in the 1990 things really started to change, all the imports of cheap clothes, factories look for new way’s to make a profit and cope with all the rising wages.
Plotting Computer machines that draw the patterns on paper, and had a better accuracy and less mistakes, but still there was need for more if the rag trade was going to survive. Factories where closing down everywhere.
So Classic Fashions invested in this great gerber cutter imported from the USA.
Classic Fashions in New Plymouth New Zealand was a ladies outer garment clothing firm, they purchased a GERBER CUTTER – Versatile Cutter Designed for Made-to-Order Manufacturing.
Some of the features were that it cut up to 8 mm (0.3 in.) of compressed material.
The Gerber stored cutting setup files for quick retrieval to accelerate future cut jobs on a computer.
It had graphical operator interface and easy-to-use on-machine control panel on a computer that simplifies operator training and use, which I learned to use,it was the start of me being a computer addict.
This is a photo of the Gerber Cutter of me operating it, it travels across the floor on tracks like a train and moves from one table to the next.
Gerber
Cuts by a laser beam, all kinds of fabric from the most delicates to the hardest of vinyl.
We had long tables which were set up with vacuum under them so when the layers of fabric were finished laying up by hand, they were moved down the table to the Gerber cutter to be cut.
The Gerber cutter was operated by vacuum, that plastic was laid on top and the vacuum sucked the material down under the plastic and held it very firm.
There would be a person at the head of the gerber cutter as the laid was being cut and take of the peices of the garments as they where cut, bundle them up and of to the markers to sort out and hang the piece on hangers, which would be ready for the machinest to sew up.
So this Gerber solutions for apparel and retail dramatically improve turn around times and significantly reduce material waste and labour costs but the factories still when on closing down until 16 march 2002 Classic Manufacturing, one of the last clothing factories to close down
in Taranaki NZ closed down..
If you would like to see more on this wonderful machine that cut down staff members,operating hand cutters, and training of humans for hands cutters take a look at this website.
Compiled By Elsie Hagley, Urenui, New Zealand

EMBROIDERY STITCHES – Couching!

August 26th, 2010
Embroidery Couching stitches are particularly useful for outlining an area or
for giving more weight to a single line.
In embroidery, couching and laid work are techniques in which yarn or other
materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in
place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn.
Usually, there are two working threads, the laid thread (which can be one or
more strands) and the couching thread.
The couching thread is stitched over the laid thread to attach it to the fabric.
The effect of couching varies with the specific stitch and the numbers of laid
threads that are used.
The more threads you laid down, the heavier the outline.
The couching threads may be either the same color as the laid threads or a
contrasting color.
In addition to outlining, whole areas can be filled in with couching.
To create textural variety, lay the threads so they run in different directions.
Two distinct types of couching are Bukhara and Rumanian. Both employ only one lenght of thread for both the laying and the couching instead of separate lenghts of thread for each.
To create more unusual effects couch over finished canvas work and applique
or try couching with metallic thread.
STRAIGHT COUCHING:
Straight couching can be used to outline a design.
To start bring the desired number of laid threads through the material, you are working on, use left thumb to hold and guide laid threads, as you couch over them.
Bring working thread up one side of the laid thread and over directly to the
other side of laid thread with the needle coming out on the rightside of the fabric at the distance you require the next stitch, (say 2 centimeters, or 1/2 inch), along the line, (as top orange coloured image below straight satin couching).
Point 3 is now point 1 for the next stitch.
Continue until laid thread are completely anchored: keep distance between stitches
consistent. Bring ends of laid threads to back of work and secure.
HOW TO FILL IN A AREA:
The middle three images in the picture below shows:
How to fill in a area, work first line as in straight couching.
At end of line, turn trailing laid threads  to the right.
Take a horizontal stitch at turning point.
Turn work upside down and couch second row of threads from right to left, placing stitches between stitches of preceeding row.
At the end of the second row, turn trailing laid threads to the right and again
take a horizontal stitch.
Turn work upright and work third row alternating vertical stitches with those in the row above.
Continue this way until area is covered,
(as in the picture of the middle images below).
BUKHARA COUCHING:
(Bottom four images below).
Bukhara Couching is used to fill an area with a woven effect.
Both the laid and couching threads are the same lenght of thread.
The thread is laid from left to right and couched from right to left.
Bring thread up at 1. insert at 2. and exit at 3 above laid thread.
(as first image shows) Insert needle at 4 over laid thread and slightly ahead of 3.
Come up at 5 (inline with 3). Continue slanted stitches to end of laid thread.
Bring needle out at 1 to begin next row.(as image 3 shows below bottom).
Place started stitch in each row between those in previous row.
(looking like image 4 as you proceed to fill in your pattern).
For Variants in Couching
Wikipedia have a very nice article on couching, also a Stitch Gallery.
Couching

Embroidery Chain Stitches!

August 26th, 2010
As the name implies the links are joined by a chain.
Each stitch has it’s own special configuration and particular use, but together
they form one of the most indispensable of the stitch groups.
Chain stitches are looped, the working thread is always carried under the needle point before the stitch is pulled tight.
For the most part, these stitches are worked vertically and are used for outlining and decorative borders.
If worked in rows to fill in a area, each row is usually stitched in the same
direction to give a texture resembling fabric.
To Make a Basic Chain Stitch.
Chain stitches are one of the most popular embroidery stitches for outlining or if worked in close rows for filling an area.
When doing the chain stitch, the needle is at point 1, you insert the needle back into the same hole at point 1, and bring it out at point 2, carrying the thread under the needle point, then pull it through point 2 is now point 1 of the next stitch.
Work all stitches the same way, always inserting needle into the hole made by
emerging thread. To end the row, take a small stitch over the last chain loop
to hold it down.
LACED CHAIN STITCH!
Top Image Below.
Laced chain stitch resembles a chain with two link sizes.
To achieve this double link effect,detached chain stitches are laced with a
contrasting thread.
This makes a pretty border or it can be used as a outline stitch.
Here is how to do it.
First work a row of detached chain stitches,( as shown in first picture ).
Using a blunt needle and contrasting thread, bring needle up under last chain.
Lace thread back and forth under each chain,( as second picture ) do not
catch the fabric.
Start again at bottom and lace in opposite direction, keeping loops even on
both sides of the detached chain stitches, ( as third picture ).
ZIGZAG CHAIN STITCH!
Middle Image Below.
Zigzag chain stitch is worked with the chains positioned at alternating angles
to give a decorative zigzag effect.
Work first stitch exactly like a basic chain stitch, angling it,(as shown in
first picture ), between double lines.
The hole from which the thread emerges becomes point 1 for the next stitch.
Insert needle at 2, piercing loop end to anchor it, and exit at 3 carry the
thread under needle point, then pull through,( as second picture in image below).
Continue sequence, ( as third picture ) always piercing loop end and keeping
angle of stitches consistent.
To end, take small stitch over last chain loop.
TWISTED CHAIN STITCH!
Bottom Image Below.
Twisted chain stitch makes an unusal textured outline.
To work, bring needle out at point 1, insert needle at point 2, which is slightly
lower and to the left of point 1, then exit at 3, which is in line with point 1,
(as shown in picture 1), carry thread under point of needle, then pull through.
Work the next stitch in the same way.
Note: point 3 of previous stitch is point 1 of new stitch..
Complete row of chains. To end, take a small stitch over the last loop to
hold it down.
Embroidery Chain Stitches